In a city where residents are surrounded by delicious food from cultures everywhere, it was almost controversial to hear that a burger place was opening on Bangladesh Avenue. Not just a burger place, but one that uses a Z in its name, and gives homage to the American burger mecca, In N’ Out. California Burgerz was coming.
I was very skeptical initially. Of course, being into this kind of thing, I was also very excited. And, don’t tell anyone this, but I’ve never been to In N’ Out. I know, I know. Someday. With my traveling shortcomings and my appetite in mind, it was imperative for me to try California Burgerz as soon as possible.
CB opened in winter, inviting us to bask in their sunny California glow and take respite from the bleak Michigan landscape. As we drove the ten or so blocks to the restaurant, we felt the warmth of California shining on us. The air pulsing with heat, humidity, hollywood boulevard, and a hint of ocean breeze. Of course, it could have just been my car’s heater finally kicking in on the wet winter day, but I choose to believe the alternative.
‘Should have brought a swimsuit’, I thought in my head, before bouncing my car into of a massive pothole and into their parking lot. Tucked away in a strip mall, California Burgerz still manages to be incredibly visible. It’s bright, tiled with a white and red checkered pattern, and very bold. Bright menus, signage, and clean surfaces sparkle at you from every angle. 50’s Rock and roll plays on the stereo, and classic fast food booth and table setup fills most of the rest of the space. I think Phil summed up the aesthetic here pretty effectively: “The halal re-imagining of a selectively nostalgic American ideal.”
They double down on the California aesthetic with a black and white mural on the far wall, with a collage of things like the Universal studios globe, the Hollywood sign, and LAX for some reason. It could work, but the image is a little odd, and the graphic scaling means it has all sorts of pixelation. The wall next to the entrance is a million times better, being covered with pictures of burgers drawn by local kids. Not only are they amazing pictures, but their presence really show that CB is already taking steps to be a local hangout.
Owner Hani Omasan, who also owns a used car lot in Hamtramck, echoed that thought when he told Metro Times he wanted to create a space for teenagers to hang out. It seems to be working so far, and brings in teenagers and families looking for a simple and good meal. Others have taken notice, too: CB has blown up in popularity since opening, getting praise from Free Press food critic Mark Kurlyandchik, Local 4 news, local food bloggers, and the Arab American News, among others. That nostalgic-but-new aesthetic is drawing people in, and the food is cementing it.
Along with their nostalgic look, the menu is simple – ten burger choices and one chicken sandwich. Sliders, big burgers, giant burgers, a veggie burger, and a turkey burger round out the choices so you can invite everyone with different dietary needs. The menu and signage note that all their burgers are cooked well done. For a pub style burger, or one at a place like Brome, that’s inexcusable. For a thin diner style patty like CB has, that’s just fine.
If you’re familiar with In N’ Out’s animal-style menu items, then you won’t be too surprised to find that CB has their “Gorilla” items instead. While they aren’t exactly the same thing- an Animal style burger at In N’ Out means a burger grilled in mustard and topped with thousand island and grilled onions, and CB does not mustard-grill their patties while switching the standard bun for a pretzel bun. The gorilla branding tells you exactly what they are aiming for, and it works. For a relatively simple menu, the Gorilla style adds a unique flair.
Ordering is quick, and after you’re given a number for your food you’ll have to wait five or ten minutes, as they make everything to order. With ten of us, our orders all came out within 15 minutes and we covered most of the menu selection. I got the double CB burger with grilled onions instead of raw, hoping for a simple burger to highlight the restaurant’s strengths. Their standard toppings include lettuce, tomato, onions, pickles, american cheese, and CB sauce, all served on a brioche bun. The CB sauce is a mayo based sauce not unlike thousand island dressing – savory and a little sweet. It a simple combination of ingredients for a simple burger.
I was very enthusiastic about this burger. I continue to be enthusiastic about this burger. It looked perfect wrapped in paper, and the cross section was almost as impressive. It worked well with its balance of acidity from the pickles, sweetness from the sauce, salt and umami from the patty, onions and cheese, and texture with the tomato and lettuce. There was more color in the patty than I expected, which was a nice surprise, and the meat tasted fresh, although not overflowing with flavor.
It does what it sets out to do – it’s a simple burger cooked on a flattop and combined with good ingredients, sold at a reasonable price point. As most of us can attest, it’s easy to find this type of diner burger that is dry, flavorless, and boring. CB’s burgers are juicy and filled with flavor. Their burgers emulate the In N’ Out style in a way that appeals to locals with unique dietary needs. And most importantly,they are very tasty.
The only thing that I thought was a little lacking was the bun, which was be a bit dry, and I would have preferred a potato roll to add some chew and some sweetness. Ordering the pretzel bun, which I’ve done upon returning, alleviates the issue pretty well. While I haven’t tried the bacon here, it is beef bacon, as is to be expected in a halal restaurant, and others who tried it reported it was very good.
Beyond the burgers, CB recognizes the importance of the sides, and the importance of a good french fry to pair with a burger. In their recognition of the almighty potato, they have managed to break ground on an entirely different kind of french fry. Their curvy fries, which are thick, crispy, as curvy as described, provide a crispy, salty, and spicy contrast to the burgers. On this visit, they were slightly under seasoned, which felt like eating warm chunks of boiled potato. Luckily, this isn’t always an issue, and return visits have yielded beautiful batches of these weirdo fried potatoes.
If the big curvy fries aren’t for you, they have regular fries on the menu as well, or you can opt for their Gorilla Fries, which follow the animal style formula – they’re curvy fries topped with loads of cheese, CB sauce, and grilled onions. They are absolutely packed with calories and fat, but taste great. I wouldn’t eat an order to myself unless I was having an especially gluttonous day.
They do a lot of things well here, and I’ve been back several times since my initial visit. The food is consistently good and the service is very friendly. Hani, the owner, came and talked to our group as we left, asking for suggestions and comments on the restaurant. While we might not see arcade machines taking up some of the extra space in the restaurant, I do expect to see the space evolve over time. The Hamtramck community will decide over time what California Burgerz’ place is, and I hope it remains as it is – a clean, affordable, and solid place to get a good burger with your family and friends.
Ratings:
Music Report: 50’s rock and roll, in a setting where you don’t expect 50’s rock and roll.
Burger: 4.091
Service: 4.18
Atmosphere: 4.58
Value: 4.30
Overall Rating: 4.26 <—- Our New Top Ranking!
Alexandria – “Music was really great!!” 4/5
Alex – “The water cups were the tiniest thing on planet Earth. It’s my first BC, I can’t rate it THAT high. “ 4/5
Bonnie – “We took a pic with the owner! Glad I tried the gorilla fries, but I won’t get them again unless I share with lots of people. Great burger!” – 5/5
Carl “H” – “The fries were passable. The gorilla fries were impressive looking” 4/5″
Erik – “A halal version of an American past that never existed. Patty is good, not great, but works great with the toppings on texture, ingredients, umami, and acidity from the pickles.” 4.5/5
Frank – “I like the clean, friendly feel of the place. Tasty, decent burger.” 4/5
Jack – “Music could vary if the wait is going to be that. slow.” 4/5
Phil – -Who are the children whose drawings adorn these walls?
-Cruisin’ Classics! Jukebox Hits! 60’s Teen Dream Rockers!
-The halal reimagining of a selectively nostalgic American ideal.
-Heavy food for teenage stomachs. Good thing it tastes good. 4/5
Summer – “Kids’ drawings on the wall were a nice added touch. Wish I had crayons. Chocolate shake was good. Tasted like Hershey’s syrup. Lacks on graphic design of logo.” 3.5/5
California Burgerz
12045 Conant Street
Hamtramck, MI 48212
Mon-Sat 11am-11pm
Sun 12pm-11pm
(313) 703-8000
Motor City Burger Club 